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Welcome to Rioja, in the northeast of Spain. The Sierra Cantabria mountain range is the spine that runs through the wine region. |
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The "little bush" training system that is used everywhere in Rioja. |
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Another ubiquitous feature: tapas, originally designed to tide people over until Spain's late dinner hour. |
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Paella alternates with grilled meats and jamon as Spain's favorite dish. |
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The tour begins in the Ribera de Duero region. Here is a castle overlooking the Duero river and town of Peñafiel. |
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The Cathdral of Burgos, the third largest in Spain, is a sightseeing stop en route from Peñafiel to Rioja. |
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Modern architecture, coupled with traditional wine, at the Lopez di Heredia winery. |
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Rioja's traditional, long-aged, semi-oxidized style is the hallmark of Lopez di Heredia. Our tastings start here, to see Rioja's stylistic origins. |
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Modern-style Rioja is found at Roda. Here we see the family's emblem, the thistle, in their barrrel-aging room. |
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A field trip takes us to the experimental vineyards of Roda, which is a leader in research on the 452 clonal varieites of tempranillo, the key grape in Rioja wine. |
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With Roda export manager Gonzalo Lainez, in their sleek tasting room. |
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The Roda line-up includes three stellar Riojas, plus olive oil. |
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A castle in Samaniego faces Remirez de Ganuza, one of the boutique Rioja wineries born in the 1980’s. |
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The comfy Vieja Bodega, a countryside restaurant where local winemakers come to dine and talk shop. |
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Restaurant co-owner Marina in La Vieja Bodega's well-stocked wine cellar. |
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The Guggenheim Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry, is a worthy side trip one morning. |
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The elegant Baroque town of Briones, once home to noble families, now houses boutique winemakers like Miguel Merino. |
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Spanish Gothic architecture inside the Cathedral of Briones. |
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Miguel Merino runs what he proclaims is, "the smallest winery in Rioja," -- and one of the finest. |
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Au naturel: Merino's winery gear includes this bundle of vine canes used for filtration. |
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Ancient ruins dot the Rioja countryside. |
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Enologist and agronomist Jesus de Madrazo Mateo outside the Contino winery, which pioneered the practice of Bordeaux-style chateaux in Rioja. |
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An old aging barrel, twice the size of the adjacent door at Contino. |
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In the cellar, the winemaker offers an impromptu tasting of Graciano, a local grape Contino helped save from extinction. |
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Sampling Contino's delectable Riojas in the formal tasting room with the winemaker. |
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After designing the Guggenheim Bilbao, architect Frank Gehry was invited to do a hotel and spa at the Marques di Riscal winery. Here we see the architectural model. |
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The Marques di Riscal's new building, in the flesh. |
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The winery dedicated a label in 2001 to the American architect, Frank Gehry. |
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A key winery historically, the Marques di Riscal was the first to bottle Rioja for commercial release -- in 1862. |
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Muga, a traditionalist in Rioja winemaking, uses only oak for wine storage and has its own cooperage inside the winery. |
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Some of Muga's vast tracts of oak. Though a traditionalist in style, the winery makes fresh, modern wines. |
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Swans adorn a fountain dedicated to the grape varieties of |
